Make your own baseball cap | Sewing tutorial


Hi, I’m Ellen, and in this video I’m going
to show you how you can make your very own baseball cap! I did ended up making a few mistakes along
the way, so what I’ll do is show you the way that I found worked best, and then you
can avoid making those same mistakes. Now, this isn’t the easiest project in the
world, but it’s definitely doable and I think it’s very fun. So get out those sewing machines and let’s
get started. To understand how a baseball cap is made,
I got an old one from the second hand store. It’s stained and a kid used it to draw on,
so I don’t feel too bad about taking it apart. While I was at the second hand store, I also
got this men’s shirt, which I will use as the fabric for my cap. It’s pretty faded on the outside, but on the
inside still looks good. The first step is to take the old cap apart. You’ll want to do this carefully, since
we’ll be using the pieces to make a pattern. So get out that seam ripper and start taking
it apart. Make sure you save the plastic insert in the
brim, because we’ll be using that in our new cap. Now that we’ve got all the pieces, we can
use them to make a pattern. To do that, I’m simply tracing the outline
of the pieces onto some paper. While doing this, I make sure to fold the
seam allowance out of the way. That way, I can add a bigger seam allowance
later, which will make sewing a lot easier. The cap has three different panels, a brim
cover and a facing. After tracing each of these, I’m adding
a 1,5 centimer seam allowance around each of them. Then, I cut them out, and I have my finished
pattern. The next step is to cut the pieces out of
the fabric. Since my fabric is pretty thin and a bit stretchy,
I’m also going to add interfacing to it. I start by taking my shirt apart so that I
have flat pieces of fabric to work with. Next, I trace my pattern pieces onto my interfacing. For each of the three panels, I’ll need
a left and a right version, so the two pieces need to be mirrored versions of each other. To achieve this, I fold the interfacing over
and cut through both layers at the same time. I then ironed the interfacing onto the wrong
side of the fabric, making sure to follow the stripes. The precise instructions are different for
different brands of interfacing, so just follow the instructions that come with yours. Then I cut around the interfacing to get my
final pieces. I repeated these steps for the facing, but
only cutting one, not two. I cut two identical brim pieces, without adding
any interfacing. It’s fine if the fabric remains a bit
stretchy, since it will help it cover the brim nicely. I also left the fabric a bit big on the inside
to give some room for error later. Finally, I decided to add a second layer of
interfacing to the front panels. The front section is usually made a bit stiffer
in baseball caps to help it keep its shape. You can just iron on the second layer directly
on top of the first layer. Now on to the assembly! The easiest way is to make the two halves
of the cap first and then stitch those together. I started by stitching the front and middle
panel together for each of the halves. Place them right sides together, pin them
in place along the seam and sew a straight stitch 1,5 centimeters from the side. But make sure that you don’t sew all the
way to the top! You’ll want to stop about 1,5 centimeters
from the end. This will make the next assembly steps much
easier and neater. As you can see, I stopped my stitching about 1,5
centimeters from the top. And now for the secret trick. You’ll want to press open each of the cap
seams with an iron. It may seem like a lot of extra work or an
unnecessary step, but you’ll see that it’s the key to making your cap look really clean
and professional. I found the pressing around the curve works
best on the tip of my ironing board. You can see how it makes the outside look
really smooth. Next, we’re going to add two lines of topstitching,
one on either side of the seam. Like the pressing, this helps keep that seam
really neat and gives your cap that professional look. It’s best to do this with the right side
of the fabric facing up, so you can make sure you keep the same distance from the seam. Just make sure you only stitch through a single
layer of seam allowance underneath. But after the pressing, that shouldn’t be
too hard. Now we’re ready to add the back panels. Place them on top of the middle panel and pin it in place. Again we’ll sew 1,5 centimeters from the
side, and stop 1,5 centimeters from the top. Now you can really see the difference that
the pressing and topstitching makes! Again, press open the seam allowances and
top stitch on both sides of the seam. At this point, you should see your two seams
meet up at around 1,5 centimeters away from the top edge. To make sure the fabric doesn’t ravel, you’ll
need to treat the edges. Since the interfacing will help against the
raveling, it’s enough to cut along the sides with pinking shears. If you don’t use interfacing, you can stitch
a zigzag stitch at the edge of all of the seam allowances instead. The two halves are now finished, and we can
put them together. Place them right sides together and pin them
in place, making sure that the centers line up. Sew all along the top seam in one go, again
1,5 centimeters from the edge. Then press the seam open. Now is a good time to check the size of your
cap. I actually didn’t check until I did a few
extra steps, as you can see here, and I had to undo those steps to make the cap fit me
right. I pinched the fabric together so that it fit
properly, took it off and made marks to show how much I needed to take in. I took out the back seam, drew a new stitching
line and adapted my pattern for future use. I then stitched the new seam. pressed it seam open and added
the top stitching. Then I cut off the excess fabric and the main
part of the cap is done. Now I’m going to finish the back by adding
bias tape around the raw edge. First, measure how long your bias tape needs
to be. For me, it’s 20 centimeters. Then, cut a piece fabric on the bias of the
fabric, which is at a 45 degree angle. Mine is 4 centimeters wide and 23 centimeters
long. I made it a bit longer than needed, just to
be safe. Because the fabric is cut on the bias, it
is now a lot more stretchy than the original fabric, which is what you want. Fold over the edges to the middle and iron
them down. Then fold the whole thing in half once more
and iron it in place. I added a 1,5 centimeter seam allowance to
the back, which I don’t need, so I’m marking it and cutting it off. Next, I’m placing the bias tape around the
raw edge and pinning it in place. Use lots of pins here, since you’re going
around a curve. Use a straight stitch to sew it in place,
close to the inner edge. To close the back I could use the snap from
the original cap, but I decided to use elastic encased in fabric instead. First, measure how long the piece needs to
be. For me, it’s 10 centimeters. I’m using elastic that’s 2 centimeters
wide, so I’m cutting a piece of fabric that’s 4 centimeters wide and 10 centimeters long,
plus seam allowances on all of the sides. I’m cutting a piece of elastic that is 6
centimeters, and sewing it in place on either end of the fabric strip. This will make the fabric bunch around the
elastic. I’m using a straight stitch to sew the elastic
on one side of the center. Next, I’m folding over the fabric and sewing
right next to the elastic to make a tube. Stretch the elastic as you sew and make sure
not to stitch through the elastic! Cut off any extra fabric next to the seam and
then turn the tube inside out, so that the elastic ends up on the inside. I started by using a safety pin on a string
to pull it inside out, but ended up using a chop stick to push it through. In the end, you should have this nice stretchy
piece to use on the back of your hat. Make a mark at 1,5 centimeters from the bottom
of your cap and sew the elastic closure in place on both sides. We’ll be folding over the extra fabric later
to give the cap a nice edge. To make a cover for the brim, I’m tracing
its shape onto the wrong side of the fabric. I’m then pinning the two layers together,
but placing the top layer a bit inwards from the bottom layer. This way, the bottom piece will be a bit smaller
than the top piece, which will make the seam sit on the bottom side of the brim. This is another thing that will give your
cap that professional look. I’m then sewing on top of the line that
I drew earlier. If your fabric is not stretchy at all, you’ll
want to sew a bit on the outside of this line, otherwise your cover may end up being too small. I’m placing the brim insert inside to check
the size. I’m cutting some slits into the seam allowance
to help it go around the curve of the brim and then using the pinking shears around the edge
to help against fraying. Turn the cover inside out and place the brim
inside again. Push the seam allowance to the bottom side
of the brim and pull the fabric nice and tight. You can see here how that seam ends up on
the bottom side of the brim. Pin the fabric in place and use a zipper foot
to sew as close to the edge of the insert as you can. Cut off the excess fabric to 1,5 centimeters
of the seam and cut slits into it to help it around that curve. Place the brim right sides together on the
front of the hat and pin it in place. Sew it in place, again using a zipper foot
and stitching as close to the edge of the insert as you can. This step is a bit tricky, and it’s very
easy to sew through extra layers of fabric accidentally. So just take your time and possibly sew the
seam in some sections. Finally, we’re going to add the facing to
the inside of the cap. First, cut little slits into to inside curve. Fold over this edge 1,5 centimeters, pin it
in place and sew it down. Next, cut little slits in the outside curve
and cut along the edges with pinking shears to prevent fraying. Place the facing right sides together along
the bottom edge of the cap. Make sure to leave some extra room near the
back. And sew the facing in place at 1,5 centimeters
from the edge. I found it worked best to sew the two sides
in place first, and then sew around the brim with a zipper foot. Fold the facing inside the hat and press it
down with an iron. Finish the back edges by folding them inwards
and stitching them in place. Finally, stitch along the whole edge of the
cap, around 3 millimeters from the bottom, to keep the facing on the inside. Again, I stitched around the two sides first,
and then used a zipper foot to stitch along the brim. And our baseball cap is done! I’m really happy with how it turned out
and I can’t wait to wear it on a nice sunny day! And that’s it for this video. If you enjoyed it, then give it a thumbs up, and
I’ll see you next time! Bye!

74 thoughts on “Make your own baseball cap | Sewing tutorial

  1. This is such a fun new skill to have, I just want to make hats in all the colours and prints I can find! If anybody knows a good place to buy those brim inserts, please let me know. There are only so many dirty old caps at the second hand store I can destroy..

  2. Great vid! Just found you at random on insta. Great start and your editing skills are great. Just make the vids shorter than 5mins and get more of your face instead of the background. And make your vibes colorful. Amazing start for a beginner. Keep it up. 😀

  3. This is really nice!! I never thought of making one. Is scary cus you don't want to make mistakes. Waste fabric and time and all of the above. But im gonna try soon i can. Thanks for the simplicity of this video.

  4. Great tutorial. You are a good teacher. I'm going to try to make small hats for pets, so this really helps me see how to actually make a ball cap. Thank you again. Cheers!

  5. Wow….Very Impressive Ellen.

    Excellent Video, and excellent instructions as well. Every word to the point.

    Are you Dutch, by any chance?

    If I sent you all the materials, would you Stitch me a Cap? And let me know How much you would Charge?
    I am in San Jose, California.

    Hope to hear from you Ellen.

    Raymond

  6. To press on a curved surface, use a tailors ham. There is a video on youtube that show how to do it. But are you from the Netherlands btw?

  7. I SNAPPED MY FINGERS AND IT DOESNT DO IT LIKE YOURS DID IN YOUR VIDEO, MY STUFF DOESNT CHANGE AT ALL. WTH? THAT MATERIAL IS VERY MUCH FAMILIAR TO A TRAIN CONDUCTORS HAT. GREAT IDEA : )

  8. Дорогая, а ты не видела мою рубашку?
    Козырек надо было резинкой стянуть, под небольшой дугой и так его пришить к шапке. Тогда бы бейсболка выглядела более стильно.

  9. Just rewatched this video as it came up in my feed, and now I've been practising sewing more I think I'm up for the challenge! 🙂

  10. Lovely & useful tutorial. I will definitely start to make baseball cap now especially when my sewing room (shed in the garden) is built. Thanks for this. 👍🏾👍🏾👍👍

  11. Very nice. You are extremely neat seamstress. I’d like to see a cap done with lace fabric ❤️

  12. Thank you, Your video is so on point, I have wanted to make baseball caps for ages but never gathered the courage to do it, until I sew you're youtube video. you made it look so easy. Cheers!!!

  13. This tutorial has been clear and easy to follow, thank you. I've been referencing it today to make a cap for a costume for my daughter.

  14. I need to do this. I have one single hat that fits perfectly and everywhere I shop they are all huge for big beads and they all touch my ears. I can literally cut off an inch on them and then they fit perfect but idk how to fix them of course lmao

  15. I came to see how you made the brim, but I see that u took an old one and took it from there (genius). Love your fabric weights

  16. It's more how to recycle a old one with a old shirt fabric not completely one from scratch.
    Nice done, but i think your video quality is a little dark, needs more light.

  17. Thank you for this tutorial! I am a cosplayer and a character I’m fine I want to make the hat this will help! Again thank you!

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